What to do in Iquitos, Peru (Amazon Rainforest)


  • Budget
    • s./ 12 for taxi
    • s./ 15 per hour canoe rental pp (x 3 hrs s./ 180 total)
    • s./ 6 for bus to lagoon pp
    • s./ 5 for lagoon admission
    • s./ 25 each way to manatee research (s./ 50 total)
    • s./ 5 fee per person for manatee center
    • s./ ?? boat road to butterfly farm (s./ 100 total) (overestimating)
    • s./ 15 butterfly farm
    • s./ 25 taxi to la playa
    • s./ 100 per person/day for food
    • s./ 500 souvenirs
  • Feb 28: Iquitos

    • Flight leaves Lima at 8 a.m., arrive in Iquitos at 10:30 a.m.

    • Hotel

    • Getting picked up by hotel; if taxi needed instead, it should cost no more than 12 soles ($4) from the airport

    • Staying at: Casa Moray

      • Calle Loreto 200 – Plaza Ramón Castilla – Iquitos, Perú

    • Visit the Belen Mercado (floating market)

      • Go to Bellavista on the Rio Nanay, neighborhood for canoe rentals

      • Rent a canoe for 15 soles ($5) per hour

    • Visit Quistococha Lagoon (5 soles, $1.60)

      • That’s where they breed GIAGANTIC fish called paiche and have a small zoo, a small beach and a lakeside restaurant/bar

      • Buses go the the lagoon from the corner of Bermudex and Moore near Plaza 28 de Julio (cost is 6 soles, trip time is 20 min)
  • March 1: Iquitos
    • Transfer to Amazonia Rainforest Lodge (would NOT recommend. They threatened me for writing a bad review)
  • March 5: Iquitos
    • Return to Iquitos

  • March 6: Iquitos

    • Explore Iquitos

    • Manatee Rescue Center (have to visit in the morning)

    • Can go from Bellavista to Playa Nana (It’s nice, but don’t swim. Strong currents)

    • Visit El Boulevard, which has an amphitheatre for live entertainment most nights

Where to eat:

  • Yellow Rose of Texas; Putumayo Street 180; 51-65-23-1353; (via NYT)
  • Al Frio y Al Fuego: upscale floating restaurant; Avenida La Marina 18; 51-65-96560-7474 (via NYT)

More info:



How to Make Homemade Fondant

I love baking quirky cakes, and I make all my fondant in my kitchen. Using store-bought fondant may be easier, but it’s more expensive, and it tastes, well, BLAH. Homemade fondant is delicious and pretty easy to make en-mass once you get the hang of it.

There are two ways to go about making the fondant. You can use fresh marshmallows or stale marshmallows (they’re kind of tough and hard). Fresh marshmallows are less likely to get burnt and easier to turn into fondant, BUT the fondant they produce can tear more easily. Stale marshmallows are more likely to burn (which can mean you have to throw the whole batch out, depending on the color you’re going for), but the resulting fondant is easier to work with.

That being said, ALWAYS use brand-name marshmallows. Yup, the more expensive ones just work better. Store brand is a no-no unless you’ve got mad skills, in which case, write to me and let me know how you did it!

(Usually one bag of powdered sugar and one of marshmallows is fine for a cake, but I always have at least three of each on hand in case something goes wrong! You can always return what you don’t use—or bake extra!)

You’ll want to put the entire bag of marshmallows in a Crisco-coated microwavable bowl and, on a regular setting, microwave them for 30 seconds. Stir. Repeat the process until the marshmallows are one, big, gooey mass.
Then, coat your hands with Crisco and mix the marshmallows with powdered sugar. I like to use brand name powdered sugar, but it’s less important than with the marshmallows. BE CAREFUL because you can burn yourself pretty nastily on the hot marshmallows, BUT wait too long and the marshmallows will set, and you’ll have to microwave them all over again. It’s a fine line!
Once the marshmallows can’t take anymore powdered sugar, you have your fondant. Wipe your counter clean and then coat it with Crisco. Recoat your hands with Crisco. There’s a LOT of Crisco going on here. Using a rolling pin (coated with Crisco) or a wine bottle (also coated with Crisco), roll out the fondant until it’s the size of the dessert you want to cover. Don’t let the fondant get too thin or it will rip. And try not to make it too thick or your guests will be chewing huge gobs of fondant!Crumb coat your dessert with cream cheese frosting and put it in the fridge for ~5 minutes. I like to buy the frosting in the can. Homemade frosting is great, but the canned frosting is actually less expensive and holds the fondant better.

Roll the fondant around the rolling pin/wine bottle to get it off the table and then drape it over your dessert. Use kitchen scissors (NOT a knife) to cut off the excess fondant. Smooth fondant, and TAH-DAH! your dessert is ready to be colored.

If you have an airbrush (go you!) just follow the directions on the packaging. If you don’t have an airbrush, you can mix food coloring with vodka to paint the cake various shades of colors. (The vodka evaporates, don’t worry!) All it takes is a regular paintbrush—but one that hasn’t been used for anything else.

Have fun, and message me with questions!

Photo Credit: Lance Anderson


cape town, table mountain, south africa

Top Things to Do in South Africa

This is the list I used when planning my trip to South Africa. Scroll through it and see what jumps out at you. Enjoy your trip, and ping me with any questions!


Two days is plenty of time to see all that Joburg has to offer. Tack on an extra day to do quirkier trips and explore the city. Uber is the best (and cheapest) way to get around if you’re new to the city and unaware of its good/bad areas, especially since there aren’t that many sidewalks for walking. Make sure your cell phone works overseas without crazy fees because there’s very little free wifi in this city!

  • Soweto
    • “For real insight into post-apartheid South Africa – a visit to the township of Soweto, home to an estimated 3.5 million people – you need to hire a guide. Besides providing a glimpse into how millions of black South Africans live today, Soweto is historically fascinating. Nobel Peace Prize-winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu both lived on tree-lined Vilakazi Street and Mandela’s former home is open to visitors. Left as it once was, Winnie’s military boots stand next to a bed with a jackal-skin throw, and old photos line the walls. Just down the road, the Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum, named after the 13-year-old whose murder by police sparked an uprising in 1976, is another hard-hitting reminder of the horrors of apartheid.” –Condé Nast Traveller
    • The guided tour of Mandela’s home is simply a memorized speech of significant dates. It’s interesting, but don’t expect it to take more than 20 minutes at the maximum.
    • The Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum was fantastic. It did a great job of explaining the uprising and its aftermath. All the feels.
    • I was skeptical of paying $70 to take a tour of Soweto, especially when I’d been told that it’s fine to walk around in the daytime. But I’m really glad we went with Township Travel (Siphiwe Kumalo info@township-travel.co.za sowetour98@gmail.com). The tour offers perspectives, not only from the tour guide, but from residents in their early 20s who take you around their neighborhood and answer all your questions. I highly recommend it!
  • The Apartheid Museum:
    • Built by the casino next door, this museum is pretty awesome. It’s also incredibly overwhelming (the layout is like a labyrinth!) and crowded. It’s worth a visit to learn some basics, but I think you’d get much more out of reading a book.
    • This place is difficult to get to. You can call an uber from where you’re staying, but there’s no wifi at the museum or the museum’s cafe to help you get back. Luckily, the pawn shop next to a gas station down the street has wifi. Ask an uber driver (they pull up to the museum all the time!) to take you to the gas station, ask for the pawn shop’s wifi and then request him/her on the app from there.
  • BOOKS!
  • Sporty Things
    • “If you can, try and watch a Premier soccer league game at the FNB stadium- kaizer chiefs (most famous and loved soccer club in SA) play there (world cup stadium finals were played and biggest stadium in south africa) tickets should be no more than $5 usd.  Sit in the heart of the crowd and get in the mix of their singing and dancing all game long. Another good PSL game to go to is Orlando stadium- for Orlando pirates (second most popular team in SA) –sit in the heart of the crowd to gain full experience.” -Emily Chow
    • “If you care to watch cricket games–you can watch at the wanderers stadium—warning: games can take up to 8 hours… or 3 hours for a “t cricket game”” -Emily Chow
    • “You can also go to Ellis Park, now known as emirates airline park to catch a rugby game. world famous stadium– where invictus was filmed and where mandela unified the black and whites thru sports.” -Emily Chow
  • Witchcraft
    • https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/museum-man-and-science
    • Kind of a letdown, actually. It’s only fun if you go with a tour and can have everything explained to you. The proprietors of the shop won’t take the time to point out all the cool stuff, (unless you show up at around 7 a.m. and ask for the owner’s son) which is understandable.

Click the link below to read more:




Packing for Winter in Iceland



Always be Reading

TWO years ago I asked y’all for book recommendations, and I JUST finished reading all the recs! You can check out my reviews on GoodReads.

  • Enchantress of Florence!
  • the final testament of the holy bible by James Frey. It’s a little intense but i love it!
  • I’m reading A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth right now. It’s about 1400 pages but pretty good so far.
  • The Alchemist
  • The Orphan Master’s Son – Adam Johnson. (One of my favourites in recent years; takes you into the strange world of North Korea)
  • The Last Lion: Winston S. Churchill (1940-1965). LONG but brilliant.
  • The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao.
  • Are you into classic lit? If you haven’t read Dickens or Steinbeck in awhile, get to it. And I’d be remiss to not suggest Austen.
  • if you like historical fiction, cutting for stone is a great read. narrative journalism – love thy neighbor by peter mass is excellent.
  • Reading “Bird by Bird” and loving it…
  • Depending on what you’re up for — Fiction: The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time. Narrative nonfiction: Devil in the White City. Biography: Mountains Beyond Mountains. YA lit: Eleanor and Park … and as we get closer to the end of the year, Holidays On Ice by David Sedaris is always a good standby.
  • Gates of Fire by Steven Pressfield. Think of it as “300” only much more historically accurate
  • Fall of Giants by Ken Follett is really well done. It is a historical fiction that takes you through WWI from the perspectives of some great characters living in the various countries involved…If you have any interest in science fiction check out Old Man War’s by John Scalzi…I know the title leaves something to be desired but it is truly epic…also maybe try rereading the Giver….Way better as an adult.
  • Mad Magazine.
  • You still need to read Ajax Penumbra 1969! It’s a quickie:https://www.goodreads.com/…/18657790-ajax-penumbra-1969
  • The Great Gatsby. Midnight’s Children.
  • Wanna read this together? https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/816.Cryptonomicon
  • Try Pedro Paramo, or one hundred years of solitude.
  • The Ghost Writer by Philip Roth. The Heart of Darkness by Joseph Conrad. Catch-22
  • Can’t argue with Cryptonomicon, Old Man’s War or any Philip Roth. Here are a few more:
    • In non-fiction: Griftopia by Matt Taibbi; Back to Our Future: How the 1980s Explains the World We Live in Now, by David Sirota;
    • In historical semi-fiction: The Book of Lost Books: An Incomplete History of All the Great Books You’ll Never Read, by Stuart Kelly;
    • In urban fantasy: Storm Front, by Jim Butcher; Mr. Penumbra’s 24-Hour Bookstore, by Robin Sloan;
    • In space opera: Consider Phlebas, by Iain M. Banks;
    • In ‘hard’ SF: Permanence, by Karl Schroeder;
    • In British Satirical Fantasy: Good Omens, by Terry Pratchett and Neil Gaiman;
    • In light (if high) literary: Last Night at the Lobster, by Stewart O’Nan;
    • In ‘modern cyberpunk/steampunk’ re-imaginings: Cinder, by Marissa Meyer;
    • In literary: Swamplandia!, by Karen Russell;
    • In high-concept SF: The Windup Girl, by Paolo Bacigalupi;
    • In disaster fiction: Lucifer’s Hammer, by Larry Niven, Jerry Pournelle;
    • In modern cyberpunk: Ready Player One, by Ernest Cline;
    • In post-apocalyptic novels with huge self-publishing success: Wool, by Hugh Howey;
    • The Snakehead by Patrick Radden Keefe
    • A thousand splendid sun by Khaled Hosseini (on Afghanistan), The white tiger by Aravind Adiga (on India). Or for something more Science fiction/fantasy, China Mieville is an author I’d recommend, especially Perdido Street Station, The City and The City or Un-lun-dun
    • Ender’s Game by Orson Scott Card (also taking notes from other recommendations)
    • Anything written by Philippa Gregory (Other Boleyn Girl etc)
    • On Khaled Hosseini’s note, The Kite Runner is unbeatable. If you want a good mix of fiction and science but not your stereotypical sci fi, read No Time to Die by Kira Peikoff. She just did a story for us and she writes medical thrillers. It was an awesome read.
    • I’ll second The Orphan Master’s Son. Also, of course David Mitchell if you haven’t read him. For older, more “classic” fiction I LOVED loved loved The Magus, by John Fowles. It’s so trippy and beautifully written.
    • Oooh yeah, I second Eloise Awure-Nsoh on The White Tiger. IF you like that, try City of Thieves too. You might like it.
    • Pride and Prejudice
    • White Teeth by Zadie Smith is my fave!
    • Here are some really excellent books I’ve enjoyed reading this year: The Handmaid’s Tale (Atwood); Till We Have Faces (Lewis); The Eye (Nabokov); Kafka on the Shore (Murakami); and Invisible Cities (Calvino). All are interesting and worth reading.
    • I absolutely love the Dresden Files series. It’s complete escapism fiction about a Wizard in Chicago. He’s the only entry you can find in the phone book under Wizard.
    • A tree grows in brooklyn, Life of Pi, Unbroken, Growing Up
    • The Name of the Rose, by Umberto Eco; Foundation, by Isaac Asimov; The Catcher In The Rye, JD Salinger; all of the Game of Thrones books…
    • 1. Margaret Atwood’s Oryx and Crake (science fiction focused on genetic engineering with an apocalyptic flair. Soon to be a TV series, I believe). 2. Lightspeed’s Women Destroy Science Fiction (anthology of short stories by established and emerging women writers). 3. Good Omens. I think someone already mentioned this one, but seriously read it. Hilarious. Wonderful. 4. Margaret Atwood’s The Blind Assassin (book within a book within a book. One of my most favorites. Just got it en espanol so I can reread as I progress).
    • Also, also, C.J. Cherryh’s Cyteen (another of my favorite science fiction writers. Cloning and nature vs. nuture). Okay, stopping now or else I’ll go on forever.
    • Gone Girl, a sweet story about Nick and Amy, a young married couple who lose their journalist jobs in the recession, and about how their marriage is affected by this setback…
    • OK, seriously. I second Catcher In The Rye. Read it yesterday if you haven’t yet. The Hunger Games trilogy, A Walk to Remember- Nicholas Sparks (don’t judge), Hillary Clinton’s first bio “Living History”, The Racketeer- John Grisham. And two non-fiction reads by great journalists: Nickel and Dimed- Barbara Ehrenreich on living poor in the US and Drama High: The Incredible True Story of a Brilliant Teacher, a Struggling Town, and the Magic of Theater- Michael Sokolove. That last one is one of my recent favorites.
    • Ooooh, KITE RUNNER, good one, Lina! And one of my favorite authors, Kazuo Ishiguro, wrote two books that touched me deeply: Remains of the day and Never let me go.
    • Still thinking about this. Quick read -> The Giver by Lois Lowry. The first dystopian fiction I ever read – it made a big impression on me.
    • Boss by Mike Royko.. This is mandatory
    • Or America: The Book by the Daily Show for a light read
    • Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Diaz. It has the best reading-effort-to-wow ratio of any book I’ve read.




Best Vets in Arlington, VA by Price

These prices are for kittens as of September, 2017. Not listed—the feline leukemia vaccine, which you should definitely get for your li’l one!

Appointment: $68.50
Preventative heartworm meds: $36.96
Flea/tick prevention: $57.17 Provecto (lasts six months)
FVRCP booster shot: $24.50
(Feline Leukemia Vaccine + booster: $60)
Total: $187.43
Total per year (excluding booster shots, including two office visits): $325.26

Appointment: $75
Preventative heartworm meds: $59 Revolution (lasts six months)
Flea/tick prevention: $?? Provecto (lasts three months) –>estimated $28.58
FVRCP booster shot: $41
(Feline Leukemia Vaccine + booster: $96)
Total: $203.58
Total per year (excluding booster shots, including two office visits): $382.32

Virginia Square

Appointment: $75
Preventative heartworm meds: $149.97 Revolution for cats above 5lbs (lasts one year)
Flea/tick prevention: included in Revolution
FVRCP booster shot: $31.50
Total: $256.47
Total per year (excluding booster shots, including two office visits): $299.97

Appointment: $89
Preventative heartworm meds: office wouldn’t disclose cost
Flea/tick prevention: office wouldn’t disclose cost
FVRCP booster shot: office wouldn’t disclose cost
Total: Unknown

Not accepting any new patients

Appointment: $89
Preventative heartworm meds: $46.95 (six months)
Flea/tick prevention: $47.33 (three months)
FVRCP booster shot: $29.40
Total: $212.68
Total per year (excluding booster shots, including two office visits): $508.55


Waking Up Katie

*I found this gem on an old computer while I was looking for a different file. I wrote it almost a decade ago during an early-morning creative writing class. (Resemblances to my actual little sister are pretty far off as she’s a gorgeous woman!)

Waking Up Katie

Two red-rimmed eyes peer through the semi-darkness, their blurred pupils suddenly coming to focus on me. Caked in gunk and watering slightly at the edges, these orbs of irritated flesh stare expectantly. A lone finger, its nail bitten to the quick, revealing the raw pink inside, interrupts this questioning gaze and proceeds to methodically explore the grimy crevices, smearing yellow goop across an eyebrow and down a cheek. The remnants of Barbie magenta nail polish dip in and out of the two small pockets and finally come to rest on one of the pale blue irises, causing the globes of color to cross and uncross rapidly.

With her hair sticking up at odd angles and her arms and legs entangled rather dangerously in summer sheets sticky with sweat, she resembles a mad contortionist, a science experiment gone awry. The being in the bed next to mine sniffs twice and, after casting another, pleading glance at me, rolls over in a convulsion of flailing arms and knotted curls. Soon, her breathing slows and she begins to snore, loudly.

My little sister can sneeze up to 25 times in a row. It’s a world record; we’ve checked. She has asthma, severe allergies, scoliosis, weight issues and chronic colds. When you look at her porcelain fair complexion, knobby knees and stooping way of carrying herself, you’d think she was about to drop dead any second. But the child has an impish smile that confirms it—ignorance is bliss. She still hasn’t gotten her head around her own physical limitations enough to recognize them. My mother hopes she never will.

The alarm clock goes off, its scream beginning the day in a manner as tranquil as a punch in the face.

My sister’s posture tenses subtly as she instinctively clutches tighter, her tiny fingers wrapping securely around a post in the headboard. She feigns sleep but sneezes five times and utters a word she probably shouldn’t know under her breath.

My sister is a weakling, but she’s a fighter, and it’s my turn to wake her up.


New Game: Airport Scavenger Hunt

Necessity is the mother of all invention. Greg and I created this game the last time we were stuck in an airport, waiting for a flight that was more than three hours delayed. Everyone was bored, JetBlue had run out of free chips and the CNN anchors rambling on about the economy just weren’t cutting it as entertainment. We needed a distraction.

The rules of airport scavenger hunt are easy. All you need to do is grow a pair (of ovaries or cojones, take your pick), and talk to strangers. Revolutionary! Each team (*ahem, Greg and I) comes up with 10 questions, picks a section of the airport and then runs around asking questions. The first person to find different people who can answer each of the questions accurately, wins!

But the real win is meeting a whole bunch of really interesting individuals. I was given the opportunity to connect and learn from people whose paths would never again cross with mine—something I rarely take advantage of anymore. It’s amazing how often we go about our days, sitting next to people on the metro, walking past them at parties and never get to know them (even in the most basic sense).

I was surprised at how many stranded passengers wanted to participate, were stoked to get involved and tell their stories. Even those not participating looked pretty darn amused. I like to think our little game made their arduous wait a little less BLARGH. And that’s the whole point of being alive, right? Making things just a little better for others.

When you try the airport scavenger hunt, lmk the questions you used and how people responded!


My Trip to Israel in 7 Patterns

I like finding patterns. Humans are programmed to look for order and structure among chaos, and I embrace my evolutionary heritage. I see faces in trees, cars and, yes, even grilled cheese. I know that Volkswagon bugs are not smiling at me, but it’s nice to give into the mind-bender and smile back. Patterns can be absolutely lovely. On this trip to Israel, I was lucky enough to make some of my own using the Adobe Capture cell phone app. See if you can find your own smiley faces:

Man at a café in Tel Aviv



Why I’m Not Apologizing for My Diet Ever Again

For years, I’ve apologized for my diet, for my food allergies. I’ve kowtowed to shop owners, genuflected in front of flight attendants and begged pardon from baby-faced waiters whose eyes I pray will someday get stuck mid-roll.

Part of it is my upbringing—we’re a very non-confrontational family—we don’t make waves. Part of it is media, telling me (and you) that I’m a weirdo. Part of it is friends, family, tour guides, etc. enforcing the stereotypes and making me feel small. But most of it is me being afraid that everyone is right. That I am weak, that I’m faking it, that I’m a burden, that I don’t deserve to eat out, travel or attend dinner parties without bringing my own food (which is what normally happens).

And it’s bullshit.

And all those people owe me an apology. In fact, I’m going to take this a step further and suggest that you take a look at your own behavior. Because, odds are, you’ve been a dick to someone about their food allergies. We deserve a fucking CAKE for all the crap you “normal people” put us through. (Granted, it’s gonna have to be a gluten-corn-sugar-nut-dairy-free cake, but we’ll take it.)

When you interact with someone who has food allergies, please keep these simple rules in mind:

DON’T ask: “What happens if you eat it?”
I’ll projectile vomit all over your mother’s blouse. I’ll get so constipated that my intestines protrude over my waistline. I’ll get diarrhea so bad it puts food poisoning to shame. I’ll sprout pus-filled blisters all over my face, and then blood will start squirting from my eyeballs.

REALLY? Do you really want our dinner conversation to include a detailed list of all my gross symptoms? If you want to know out of concern for my safety, you can ask whether I carry an Epi pen and where it’s located in case of an emergency. Otherwise—and I mean this kindly—bugger off.

Do you know how difficult it is to explain disgusting stuff in a way that won’t disgust people? Do you know how much I hate doing it?

First of all, I’m NOT going to eat “it” so this isn’t a relevant question. Secondly, I wouldn’t ask YOU about your health problems over dinner, and I think it’s incredibly rude that you ask about mine—EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.

(In case you’re not great with sarcasm, the above allergies are made up. But, still, you get the idea. It’s never going to be pretty. That’s why we allergic people don’t EAT these foods. If food allergies gave me silkier hair or prettier skin, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t be writing this blog post right now.)


DON’T make me feel like a freak
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been out to dinner when the waiter will take my partner’s order and then, after listening to me, give him a nod and say, “Oh, so you’re the normal one.” Or maybe he’ll refer to me, from then on, as “the difficult one.” Or, my favorite, “So you’re THAT girl.”

Yes, you’re right, waiter. I came here so I could feel bad about myself. Thanks for letting me know that I’m a freak and reminding me that my life will always be a little shittier because I’m forced to deal with people like you. Totes awesome.

About 15 million people in the U.S. have some sort of food allergy. I happen to have more food allergies than the average person, but that’s not my fault. You wouldn’t tease someone with a broken leg, calling them “difficult” or abnormal. I wish I had a broken leg—at least it would eventually heal. This shit is probably gonna stay with me forever.

So, please, I beg of you, THINK before you open your mouth and spew words.

DON’T openly make fun of me
Do you think I like giving up delicious foods? Cookies right out of the oven—that’s heaven right there. And I can’t eat them.

Oftentimes, the one thing people remember about me is “Oh, she’s the woman allergic to XYZ” because YOU made such a fuss over it. I’m a pretty cool person with lots more to be remembered by than food allergies. Please refrain from being a jerkface.

DON’T just order pizza
FACT: 60 percent of the U.S. adult population is lactose intolerant. And, in the U.S., minority populations are much more likely to be affected. So the next time you plan an event and only order pizza, you’re really just excluding more than half of your attendees AND managing to dissuade minorities from showing up. How about you reconsider that order, huh?

DON’T act like this is a bigger deal for you than it is for me
I recently took a reporting fellowship to Israel. I was told that I’d be “fed a lot and often.” Free food? Who doesn’t like free food? Especially free Mediterranean food! But, of course, just to be on the safe side, I emailed the trip coordinator the week before, letting him know about my allergies.

Of the 30 countries I’ve visited, it was the worst experience I’ve ever had traveling abroad.

Now, usually, I’d be totally fine procuring my own food. Drop me anywhere in a Romance language-speaking country, and I’m a food-finding machine. But this is Israel. I have no idea how to speak or read Hebrew.

I told the coordinator that I was allergic to the ingredients in falafel the day before we were stopping at a falafel place for lunch. Instead of planning ahead and helping me out, we got to the falafel place, and the coordinator said I could eat hummus. HUMMUS. He wanted me to scoop up hummus and eat it with a spoon.

I’m all for a good hummus spread, but that’s not exactly a filling meal.

It gets better. The tour guide finally offered to help me find food, which took a while because it turns out that falafel stands are SUPER popular. So finally we stumble across a Japanese place that makes sushi and the guide goes to order me some salmon rolls. Normally, this would be awesome. But the salmon had obviously been sitting out for a while and was kinda graying at the edges. I asked the guide to inquire after refrigerated salmon.

He flipped. The look he gave me was of pure disgust. He stalked out of the restaurant, threw his hands up in the air and proceeded to tell me how frustrating and difficult I was. He told me, angrily, that there was no way I could get food poisoning from eating that fish.


I explained to him that I was sorry he was frustrated but to look at it from my perspective. I’d had food poisoning before and wasn’t eager to get it again. Plus, he had to deal with my allergies for five days—I had to deal with them for life. He proceeded to tell me that I wasn’t making his life any easier.

*whistling sound as the point of the conversation goes over someone’s head *

Yes, during the trip, both the guide and the coordinator berated me for having food allergies, for not getting myself food and for being difficult, frustrating and a burden on the trip. They also told the entire fellowship, a sizable group of journalists, all about my food allergies, discussing them openly, loudly and publicly—as one usually discusses the health problems of others. NOT.

(In his defense, the tour guide did apologize eventually. But not until I sat in the bathroom of a Japanese restaurant for 20 minutes, sobbing.)

(ALSO, I packed half my suitcase with food I could eat. I just didn’t have enough for three meals a day. BUMMER.)

DON’T tell me to eat at vegan/vegetarian restaurants
I’ve been to plenty of vegan and vegetarian restaurants where the chef doesn’t know what ingredients they use in their sauces. That’s the cue for me to get up and walk out. And it SUCKS.

DON’T ever use the words “Oh, why don’t you just try eating a little?”
Because I can’t even.

DO try and be flexible
When a waiter goes out of their way to make sure my meal is allergen-free, I call their boss, I write an amazing review, and I tip really well.

Should I have to do this? Shouldn’t it just be a part of a waiter’s job? You’d think, but it’s incredibly rare.

So, friends, isn’t it worth the extra time to make someone feel less awkward and alienated? I’ll make it worth your while (probably with cake!)!

DO ask how you can help
I was recently on the phone with United Airlines for more than an hour, trying to get a list of the ingredients for their in-flight meals. I was days away from boarding an international flight, and I didn’t want to take up precious space in my carry-on to pack my own breakfast, lunch and dinner.

I’d like to tell you that United Airlines has a list of ingredients for their meals, this being 2017, but that’s not the case. In fact, when I got on the flight, the flight attendant didn’t even have the gluten-free meal I’d requested. Instead of apologizing for the mixup, she told me that I should’ve called ahead of time.

Which I did. And I emailed. Twice.

So, when you extend some compassion—any compassion—to someone with food allergies, know that you’re making their day. It’s a common courtesy that I rarely get from anyone.

DO refuse my apology
Because I shouldn’t have to apologize for something that’s not in my control. And I’m going to try my damnedest to stop apologizing, but if you hear me do it, please politely decline. That’ll let me know you care about me, and that I’m worth your time, your compassion and your (extra) effort. And from one human being to another, I thank you so, so much.